The 2017 Pinot Noir Krafuss from Alois Lageder is stunning, taking the ripeness of the vintage in stride. It shows a gorgeous bouquet of rose petals, fresh strawberry, sweet almond paste and a dusting of confectioner’s spice. Silky textures coast across a feminine frame with mineral-laced red fruits and a slight twang of cherry pits, as pretty violet florals amass toward the finale. There’s a bitter pinch of nervous acidity that keeps the mouth watering with hints of sour citrus and savory herbs tugging at the senses. Wow, what a beautiful and balanced wine. The Krafuss is matured for eighteen months in barrels ranging from 225 to 500 liters, and even as I write this, it continues to gain further depths.
- November, 2020, Eric Guido