Robert Parker
Domaine Bonneau du Martray, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy White
94
"De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white “shuts down” for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and – for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude – suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade.
As usual, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Moriniere gave his Chardonnay from the heart of En Charlemagne a year in cask followed by six months on the fine lees in tank. He picked his one Pinot block early in September, then paid his crew for eight or nine days while the rest of his parcels ripened completely. "I would never have expected such quality given the weather conditions," says de la Moriniere, but then he reflected on the frequent divergence"
–December 2009
Domaine Bonneau du Martray, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy White
94
"De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white “shuts down” for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and – for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude – suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade.
As usual, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Moriniere gave his Chardonnay from the heart of En Charlemagne a year in cask followed by six months on the fine lees in tank. He picked his one Pinot block early in September, then paid his crew for eight or nine days while the rest of his parcels ripened completely. "I would never have expected such quality given the weather conditions," says de la Moriniere, but then he reflected on the frequent divergence"
–December 2009
Burghound
Domaine Bonneau du Martray, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy White
93
"A wonderfully elegant, pure and high-toned nose that is quite floral with a pronounced citrus influence to the green apple and wet stone notes that border on a mineral-reduction character, which continues onto the detailed and equally pure flavors that possess a cuts-like-a-knife linearity on the bone dry and palate staining finish. This is like sucking on pebbles and while the flavors are distinctly austere at present, the balance is impeccable and this should make for a first-rate vintage for this wine in time. Note however that patience will be required."
–July 2010
Domaine Bonneau du Martray, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy White
93
"A wonderfully elegant, pure and high-toned nose that is quite floral with a pronounced citrus influence to the green apple and wet stone notes that border on a mineral-reduction character, which continues onto the detailed and equally pure flavors that possess a cuts-like-a-knife linearity on the bone dry and palate staining finish. This is like sucking on pebbles and while the flavors are distinctly austere at present, the balance is impeccable and this should make for a first-rate vintage for this wine in time. Note however that patience will be required."
–July 2010
Domaine Bonneau du Martray, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy White
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